Book Review: Locksport

Overall: Excellent reference! Reading and understanding the theory behind lock-picking is no substitute for practicing.

I picked up No Starch’s Locksport book at BSides Seattle, directly from one of the authors. Matt and the technical reviewer, Peter, were kind enough to sign my copy!

The organization is excellent, and it’s easy to find what you’re looking for.

The first part is all about the basics, including descriptions of different lock types, the tools themselves, and lock maintenance. I did not know there were so many types of locks! My key ring has a couple of key types, like the pin-tumbler house key and tubular keys for the mailbox and toolboxes. I’m reasonably certain that behind the safe’s electronic lock is a lever lock. We have physical keys that we have safely tucked away in the event the electronic lock fails. I also learned keys can have interactive elements beyond the typical key shape that also interact with the lock. What impresses me the most is the mechanical engineering that goes into creating a lock.

The second part moves on to what we all picture a lock to be: a pin tumbler lock. While this book focuses on the sport of lock-picking, it certainly answered the basic questions I might ask a lock-picking village volunteer. Of course, there’s a giant difference between knowing the concepts of what is happening, mechanically, and actually picking a lock. Next time I find myself at a lock-picking village, I will have more targeted questions.

This part of the book also sets up a rhythm for the rest of the book: a chapter for tools, a chapter for step-by-step application, and a chapter on competitions.

The third part focuses on imprisoning, aka reverse engineering, a key from the lock itself. If you start with a blank key, the metal-on-metal nature of keys and locks creates marks as the blank key comes into contact with the lock pins. Careful eyes and a steady hand at filing create a new key for the lock. This is also why posting a picture of an average residence key on the internet is a bad idea. A picture of a key has enough information to re-create the key.

I appreciate the pictures and the diagrams throughout the text. They are useful!

Safe-cracking was fascinating. I only knew what I’d seen in movies and that’s hardly representative of reality. Turns out the headphones are real tools, but the movies leave out graphs and any explanation of the method. The process is as well-defined as any algorithm and certainly seems straightforward enough, but I have no context for the reality of actually doing it. The one safe lock in the house is electronic (not combination, as shown in the text) and is very much in use.

The last section covers lever locks. Through no fault of the authors, it was the section I understood the least. The overall process is the same as a pin tumbler lock, but, again, the application is different, since the lock mechanics are different. Lever locks require a distinct set of tools than pin tumbler locks, effectively putting this out of reach for me without additional investment. That’s fine! I’m not a locksmith, nor do I plan to be.

I don’t recommend reading this cover-to-cover like I did; it’s an overwhelming amount of information. I’ll be practicing to keep my fidget hands busy if I’m not otherwise writing; it beats scrolling social media. I recently received a set of clear practice locks, so I’ll be able to see what’s happening in response to my picking attempts. Purists would say that clear locks upfront teach bad habits. However, at this stage, I need a clear lock to make the connection between what I’m feeling through the tools and what is happening in the lock.

Notes for writers:

First, a word of caution: Know your local laws. Often, simple possession of lock picks is legal — they’re tools — but using them to commit a crime is not legal. However, different regions can view this differently. Even if it’s legal, I won’t fly with my picks, lest I encounter an over-zealous TSA employee. Check with your lawyer.

Lock-picking works because locks have to be manufactured, and that means manufacturing tolerances determine how many imperfections exist in any lock. Lock pickers take advantage of these imperfections. The more expensive the lock, the tighter the tolerances, and the harder it is to pick.

Old-fashioned warded locks are the type of lock with skeleton keys. The lock has some kind of obstruction that the key must fit around in order to open the lock; a skeleton key is a minimally viable functional key. People remove “extra” material from the key to fit around the lock’s obstruction without knowing what that obstruction actually looks like. The obstruction can be basically anything that makes sense in context. Characters with engineering know-how could certainly invent their own lock, just to foil the hero. Rich characters have the means to buy the same.

Pin tumblers are the classic lock. Two tools are needed: a wrench (to do the turning) and a pick (to do the picking). Picking the pins without turning the lock with the wrench does nothing. Single-pin picking is a slower technique and uses a pick and a wrench. Multi-pin picking is faster, but sloppier, and uses a rake and a wrench. The aim is to put all the pins at roughly the same spot the lock’s key would. Do that, turn the wrench, and open the lock.

The way the book covered safe-cracking is more akin to the classic Master Lock combination locks most folks had in high school. Bypassing or hacking electronic locks is an entirely different concept. However, as mentioned above, the electronic lock on our safe has a back-up mechanical lock. As a hacker, the aim is the shortest path to victory. If a character can pop the hinges and open the door from the other direction, it might be faster than picking a super-expensive high-end lock.

Basically, each digit in the combination has a wheel with a cutout notch kept locked by a basic lever. Dial the numbers, each lever lifts, the lock opens. Both the wheel and lever are metal, and one can hear when the lever hits either side of that notch. The notch also has a bit of wiggle room in number dialed. Remember the sinking feeling of “oh, shoot, I dialed 21-42-58 instead of 20-40-60”? The lock probably opened anyway because of that wiggle room. Identify the edges of the notch, identify the corresponding number on the dial, and figure out the combination.

Handcuffs have several differences, but the principle is the same. The good news is there is less key variation, and it’s easy to purchase a key. Hide them in your spy’s cufflinks, earrings, or other inconspicuous jewelry.

Obviously, the devil is in the details, and I do not claim to be an expert. Look out a local TOOOL chapter for more research.

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